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benjie
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![[*]](./images/xpsilver/default_icon.gif) posted on 2/24/10 at 10:24 AM |
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I just found out that power flex has a US distributor. I am probably going to order next month.
Also how noticeable of a difference is switching out the mounts?
The one that is a liitle slack can you tell when you are driving that there's slackness?
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Madcat
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| posted on 2/24/10 at 06:07 PM |
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With the old mounts I could feel the engine move all the time. Once I swapped them out there was a huge difference in throttle responce and power
delivery.
No noticable vibes for the "loose" mount but then again the mounts cause alot of vibes in the 1st place.
Jim
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benjie
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| posted on 4/20/10 at 02:19 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Madcat
With the old mounts I could feel the engine move all the time. Once I swapped them out there was a huge difference in throttle responce and power
delivery.
No noticable vibes for the "loose" mount but then again the mounts cause alot of vibes in the 1st place.
Jim |
Jim, are you saying that the poly mounts increase vibration in the car?
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Madcat
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| posted on 4/20/10 at 05:35 PM |
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Engine mounts are designed to isolate the engine from the chassis. This is why a cars ride is so smooth. The poly mounts stiffen the connection
between the engine and chassis, transmitting the vibes.
Jim
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benjie
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| posted on 4/20/10 at 09:19 PM |
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Never thought of it like that. I seem to be destroying my rear engine mount. Second in three months or so. I went aftermarket. I can get a
replacement for free(the only perk of buying at autozone) but I don't want to be continuously changing mounts. I am thinking about either buying the
poly for the rear mount or going to the dealer for it. I don't want to deal with the extra vibration. The last and most expensive is to get a TRD
mount.
By the way, where did you get the poly sway bar ends from?
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Madcat
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| posted on 4/21/10 at 05:49 PM |
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Auto-Zone
enrgy-suspension part# 9.8122
Jim
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Madcat
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| posted on 4/30/10 at 07:55 PM |
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ARGHH Something involving the cooling system on the back of the block just gave up the ghost. Engine got very hot.
As fast as I can put water in the rad it comes out the block. On top of that one of the seals for the cam/crank shit itself and now I've got to get a
timing belt
Post #1900
Jim
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PaseoDave
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| posted on 4/30/10 at 08:05 PM |
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Coolant leak at the back of the block...... leaking heater hose?
.... or frost plug? 
~Dave
I don't speed, I just hit the MAX FAST!
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Madcat
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| posted on 4/30/10 at 10:32 PM |
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From what I could tell this morning it was coming from around the starter area. This could be the rubber elbow from the thermostat housing or one of
the freeze plugs, possibly my heater hoses that I looped together.
Not my main concern. More worried with the oil leak.
Jim
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Madcat
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| posted on 5/1/10 at 08:52 PM |
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Found the coolant issue:
The coolant elbow between the thermostat housing and the waterpump pipe burst.
Got the engine tore down to the oil pump. Gonna go ahead and replace it with a Toga unit.
BTW I think my front tires have about had it.
Jim
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Madcat
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| posted on 7/27/10 at 11:02 PM |
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Finally got the time to really look into this... looks like the 4E has a HG issue. I'm getting compression in the cooling system. And everytime it
boosts it blows oil out the crank area.
Guess I'm gonna have to look into my 5E build sooner than I wanted.
Updates as progress is made.
Jim
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Anomaly
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| posted on 7/28/10 at 11:58 AM |
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benjie
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| posted on 7/30/10 at 06:16 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Madcat
Auto-Zone
enrgy-suspension part# 9.8122
Jim |
On last silly question. Should I be using any lubricant when I put them on? If so where? It's kind of late to ask as I already put them on last
week but I figure I should make sure anyway.
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Madcat
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| posted on 7/30/10 at 10:38 PM |
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It'll be fine the way it is.
Jim
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benjie
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| posted on 8/28/10 at 02:15 PM |
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Hi Jim, regarding the anti lift kit. How hard was fitting it? Once you remove the old bushing, is there anything else that you have to do. I'm
looking at the end of the control arm and the piece of metal looks kind of thick. Do you just add lubricant or is there metal that has to be removed?
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Madcat
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| posted on 8/28/10 at 06:21 PM |
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The lower control arm has a pressed on metal ring with the rubber bushing. remove the rubber then cut a groove in the ring with a dremel or such don't
go crazy or you'll hit the LCA. Once you cut the ring pry it off with a flathead screwdriver and fit the ALK bushing on the LCA. A bench vice helps so
you can keep your hands steady.
Jim
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