Warren
Member
Posts: 223
Registered: 9/2/08
Location: Charlotte, NC
Member Is Offline
Mood: More hung over than a cave full of bats...
|
![[*]](./images/xpsilver/default_icon.gif) posted on 8/17/10 at 11:24 AM |
|
|
Rack & Pinion
Has anyone out there replaced the rack and pinion on a first Generation Paseo? I just flunked the NC Inspection due to leaks on either side of it. The
want a decent chunk of change to replace it, so I was wondering if I could do it myself? (oh and I also have to replace the exhaust flange gasket
too.) Everything else looks good though.
This might be the deal breaker for my Paseo. 
|
|
|
PaseoDave
Member
Posts: 223
Registered: 5/15/08
Location: Timmins, Drayton & Cambridge ON Canada
Member Is Offline
|
| posted on 8/19/10 at 08:19 AM |
|
|
Changing the R&P is a tough one to get at, but not impossible to do yourself.
You would need to disconnect both tie rods, both p/s lines, vacuum hoses and the steering column linkages (little u-joints).
The R&P itself, is secured to the firewall by 4 nuts on studs. These may prove to be nearly impossible to remove depending on rust.
You may need to further remove the tie rods from the R&P in order to wiggle the unit out. Also, because you will be dropping the R&P unit out
from below the car, you may need to disconnect your exhaust down pipe from the exhaust manifold.
Good luck 
~Dave
I don't speed, I just hit the MAX FAST!
 |
|
|
Warren
Member
Posts: 223
Registered: 9/2/08
Location: Charlotte, NC
Member Is Offline
Mood: More hung over than a cave full of bats...
|
| posted on 8/20/10 at 07:00 AM |
|
|
| Quote: | Originally posted by PaseoDave
Changing the R&P is a tough one to get at, but not impossible to do yourself.
You would need to disconnect both tie rods, both p/s lines, vacuum hoses and the steering column linkages (little u-joints).
The R&P itself, is secured to the firewall by 4 nuts on studs. These may prove to be nearly impossible to remove depending on rust.
You may need to further remove the tie rods from the R&P in order to wiggle the unit out. Also, because you will be dropping the R&P unit out
from below the car, you may need to disconnect your exhaust down pipe from the exhaust manifold.
Good luck |
Thanks. I found this detailed procedure. I am not sure if I feel froggy enough to try it by myself yet though. I will take a look this weekend and see
if I can line up a garage and/or some help. Thanks again for the insight. 
It a pretty difficult job for someone who isn't a mechanic, but if you have the tools and want to try it, go for it. You will save yourself A LOT of
money on labor (because I would charge a pretty penny on this car)
Tools: Good socket and wrench set, pair of pliers, *pitman arm puller, and some screwdrivers.
Procedure:
1) loosen lug nuts
2) jack up and support front of car (both sides)
3) remove wheel
4) remove the cotter pin from tie rod end and remove nut (17mm) tie rod end is located behind the brake rotor on the side closest to the fire wall)
5) use your pitman arm puller (you could use a ball joint separator fork, but arm puller is generally easier) to pop the tie rod end out of the
knuckle.
6) turn the tie rod end jam nut to the right to move it up the tie rod some. this will allow the tie rod end to turn so you can remove it. Count the
turns it takes to get the tie rod end off.
7) remove the tie rod end and jam nut and save them. You will need to put these back on your new rack.
8) repeat steps 3 through 7 on the other side
9) remove the air filter box (top and bottom) and disconnect the intake duct work to allow access to fittings on rack
10) remove the hydraulic lines with a wrench (there are two. one leads in, and one returns p/s fluid) ps fluid will flow freely. you should catch this
in a drain pan. I wouldn't reuse it, though. There could be contaminates in it from the damaged rack (depends how bad it was damaged)
11) there is what appears to be some sort of solenoid with two vacuum lines on the opposite side of the two hydraulic lines. remove those lines, and
unscrew the solenoid. save this. you will need it for your new rack.
12) there is a plastic cover held in by small nuts just above the hydraulic lines where the rack is joined with that universal joint and the steering
wheel assembly. remove this cover.
13) there is one bolt that holds the spline coming from the rack into the u-joint. remove this completely
14) there is another bolt inside the driver compartment on the top side of the u-joint. if you remove this, you can slide that u-joint up the spline
and separate it from the rack. your car has an unusual amount of leeway there. that is lucky for you.
15) there are two brackets holding the rack to the firewall. each has two bolts. (one on top, one on bottom.) remove these two brackets and save the
rubber behind them. If the rubber isn't there, or is not any good, you could just cut some radiator hose and wedge it in when you put them back. It
just helps keep the rack from moving (which it generally won't anyway.)
16) it is recommended that you remove that transmission mount that is right in the way, but it is possible to work around it. once the rack is
completely free of all connections, brackets, and the u-joint, you will have to wiggle it out. The easiest way (listen carefully. this is tricky, but
it will work) is to slide the rack toward the driver's side as far as it will go, making sure the tie rod on the passenger side is out of it's hole
and free to move about. then, tilt the passenger side of the rack down and wedge it between the oil pan and the c/v axle. You will probably have to
rotate the rack a half turn to make the spline face down. I don't believe you can get it out with it facing up. It should, with a little work, slide
out.
17) if you actually made it this far, you should become a mechanic. Installation is exactly the reverse of removal. you may have some trouble
connecting the steering wheel to the rack so that the wheels and the steering wheel is straight. the easiest (really the only) way is to put
everything back together and set the car down. straighten the wheels and then you can disconnect that u-joint again and set it straight.
The only thing to keep in mind when putting the new rack is remembering how many turns it took to get the tie rod ends off. This should get it
somewhat close to proper alignment, but not close enough. You will still need a front end alignment after replacing the rack. That's just one of those
things. and do not forget to put power steering fluid back in!!!!!
Good luck. I hope this helps.
|
|
|
|
